Winter Weekend in Krakow

To avoid the summer city crowds and receive some cosy winter cheer, how about a winter weekend in Krakow? It’s only 2 hours 20 minutes flying time from London, making it a comfortable, short hop. Mum and I decided to choose it for our annual Christmas Market trip and we were lucky it decided to snow, which added even more to the city’s festive atmosphere.

About Krakow

Krakow is often described as the cultural capital of Poland and is positioned on the banks of the Vistula River. The old town is ringed by Planty Park, which is a lovely route to walk (even if covered in snow). At its heart is the huge market square, Rynek Glowny, featuring St Mary’s Basilica.

The city escaped the worst of WWII bombing and is still full of beautiful, medieval buildings. However, while the buildings escaped at the hands of the Nazis, the people did not. Krakow is still haunted by the memories of Jewish residents being deported, sent to the ghetto or to nearby Auschwitz. A walk around Kazimierz (the old Jewish quarter) is both fascinating and thought provoking.

Christmas Markets in Krakow

Krakow has a wonderfully festive atmosphere in the run up to Christmas. The Christmas Market takes place in the main market square – Rynek Glowny – from the end of November until 26^thDecember, and sometimes beyond until 6^thJanuary. It opens from 10am until late into the evening.

While the Christmas market in Krakow is relatively small, there was enough choice to keep us happy and we didn’t have to struggle through any crowds. You will find around 80 stalls selling all manner of goods from wool socks and handmade pottery to sheepskin rugs and Christmas decorations. Mum and I have visited over a dozen Christmas markets and our favourite part is the food and drink. The equivalent of mulled wine in Poland is grzaniec galicyjski – try saying that when you’re feeling tipsy!

We found Krakow Christmas Market a great place to try out local food specialities and we enjoyed sampling the typically Polish pierogi dumplings. A local market-goer advised us to try the most typical of them all – the steamed ‘ruskie’ (Russian) pierogi– filled with potato and cottage cheese, topped with caramelized onions. They were very tasty.

Another local snack is ‘oscypek’ – a strangely squeaky, smoked cheese, cooked on a BBQ and topped with cranberry sauce. But our favourite Polish dish was the ‘golonka’ – slow cooked pork knuckle, served with buttery roast potatoes, mushrooms and mustard. Even for research purposes, I couldn’t quite bring myself to try the other popular snack of rustic bread slathered in thick lard.

Things to do on a winter weekend in Krakow

Wawel Castle

This beautiful Renaissance castle dates back to the early 16^thcentury and enjoys a lofty position over the city. It’s a lovely walk up to the top of Wawel Hill, revealing panoramic views of the Vistula River below.

Formerly occupied by the Swedes, Austrians and Polish monarchs, Wawel Castle is now a museum featuring different sections such as the State Rooms, Royal Private Apartments and the Crown Treasury & Armoury (home to the Polish equivalent of the Crown Jewels). Each requires a separate entry ticket.

After wandering around the castle and cathedral complex, we made our way through the snow to see the fire-breathing Wawel Dragon below us on the riverbank. Legend has it that a wicked dragon once lived in a cave on the hill, until he was overcome by a poor shoemaker who went on to marry the princess. The bronze equivalent now breathes real flames to entertain visitors.

The Basilica and Market Square

Bustling with pigeons, people and street performers, Krakow’s main market square is one of the largest medieval squares in Europe. Surrounded by elegant town houses, restaurants and cosy cafes, the square is also home to a small, but perfectly formed Christmas market (see above).

The iconic twin spires of the 14^thcentury St Mary’s Basilica dominate one corner of the square. I couldn’t help being drawn to it by the hourly bugle call. A trumpeter sticks his golden trumpet out of each of four windows, at the top of the spire, and plays the same tune in each compass direction. We discovered the local fire brigade supplies the buglers – I can only imagine they have really strong calf muscles from walking up and down all the stairs!

We found the simplicity of the Basilica’s exterior to be in stark contrast to what lies inside. The interior is breathtaking with its blue ceiling filled with stars, beautiful stained glass windows and a magnificent wooden altar.

The Cloth Hall

While there are plenty of shops to investigate, my favourite shopping experience was at the Cloth Hall in the centre of the market square. This covered market is one of the oldest shopping malls in the world. Originally dating back to the 14^thcentury, the current version was given a Renaissance revamp in the 16^thcentury.

Merchants still line each side of the beautifully decorated Cloth Hall, selling lace, woodwork, jewellery and textiles. If you want to buy amber, the most famous gemstone in Poland, there is plenty of it here.

Above the Cloth Hall sits the impressive 19^thcentury Polish Art Gallery and Café Szal offering lovely views over the market square. Hidden underneath the square, the Rynek Underground Museum explains the history of the square and reveals the sight of excavated medieval merchants’ stalls. Book tickets in advance to avoid missing out.

Horse & Carriage ride

We made a spur of the moment decision to take a carriage ride as it was starting to snow and one of the drivers shouted, ‘special price.’ We trotted through the beautiful market square, with a blanket over our knees. Heading towards the Castle with the snow softly falling, we felt like we were in a fairytale.

Warm up in a café

While it can be very cold in winter, there are plenty of cafes and bars to warm up in (see more ideas for places to eat below). After our snowy visit to the castle, we sat down with a mug of hot chocolate and cherry strudel to watch the world go by in one of the outdoor, covered cafes in the market square.

Kazimierz

The Kazimierz district is easily reached on foot, just south of the Old Town. This area was the centre of Jewish life in Krakow for over 500 years, before being destroyed in the war. Since the fall of communism, and the exposure from the film Schindler’s List, Kazimierz has rebounded into a vibrant, bohemian neighbourhood of cafes, bars, antique shops and galleries.

Kazimierz is an atmospheric area to wander the winding streets with glimpses of old synagogues, historic buildings and Jewish cemeteries. We enjoyed spotting some fantastic street art, including the Kazimierz Historical Mural (depicting five famous, Polish, historical figures) and a mural of Gene Kelly singing in the rain.

Much more sobering than this was the sight of an abandoned building, whose hand-written plaque commemorated the lives of a Jewish family who had been moved out in 1941.

We sadly missed visiting the Schindler’s Factory Museum, because we hadn’t pre-booked tickets. The museum recreates the story of Oskar Schindler and his employees, while explaining what it was like to live in the city during occupation.

Auschwitz

While in Krakow, you will undoubtedly see plenty of posters advertising guided trips to Auschwitz – the largest concentration camp run by the Nazis. I had already visited previously, and, the memories were so strong, I decided not to visit again on this occasion. If you want to visit Auschwitz, you’ll need to pre-book and allow a whole day, as it is 75km from the city. Visiting Auschwitz is an intensely memorable and sobering experience, perhaps an important one for everyone to experience.

Eating and drinking in Krakow

We found Polish cuisine to be pretty hearty, like a lot of other central and eastern European food, which is perfect for a winter weekend. It’s mainly based around meat and fish, with few vegetables. While we enjoyed trying out local specialities in the Christmas market, we also found some lovely, cosy restaurants to eat in.

Our restaurant recommendations in Krakow are:

Pod Nosem, near the castle – I had a tasty goose leg braised in dark beer with a healthy helping of bread-like dumplings and dried fruits. Mum chose a juicy Mangalica pork chop with apple, cranberry and mashed potatoes.

Restaurant Szara, on the market square – This was our favourite. It features in the Michelin guide and the food was really delicious. I loved my perfectly cooked sirloin steak, served with duchess potatoes and béarnaise sauce. Mum had melt-in-the-mouth slices of duck breast with spinach and parmesan croquettes, fresh figs and red wine sauce.

Restaurant Bonerowska steak and fish restaurant, on the market square – The steaks looked great, but we’d already eaten quite a lot of meat, so I opted for a shrimp and champagne risotto, while Mum went for cod with crispy kale. Both dishes were really lovely. Tables in the window overlook the square.

Vodka

You can’t visit Poland without trying their most famous drink – vodka. One of the highlights of our stay was a fun couple of hours in ‘Wodka’. There’s not enough room to swing a cat inside this tiny vodka bar, but it’s lovely and cosy and the lack of space encourages everyone to chat.

From a fantastic range of flavoured vodkas (including the intriguing bison grass flavour), you can choose a tasting board of six. We went for a festive selection of chocolate, hazelnut, caramel, egg nog, honey and cinnamon. It made for a perfect diversion on a dark, snowy afternoon and we enjoyed chatting to a couple whose table we shared.

Where to stay on a winter weekend in Krakow

We stayed at the Bonerowski Palace hotel, and what a lovely hotel it turned out to be. Dating back to the 14^thcentury, it takes its name from former owners, the Bonerowski family, who were royal bankers. With only 16 rooms, it has an intimate feel. And while luxurious, it didn’t feel in the least bit stuffy or pretentious. Price from approximately £150 per room per night.

The Bonerowski Palace is located on the main square of the Old Town, so you can’t get much closer to the heart of the action. Our room was on the second floor, up a flight of spiral stairs lit by beautiful chandeliers. It was a good size, but had a cosy feel and everything we needed for a city break weekend – comfy bed, good shower and a kettle.

Breakfast is an impressive spread of fruits, pastries, cheeses and meats, in addition to freshly prepared eggs or crepes at a live cooking station. My highlight though was the mini chocolate doughnuts, light as air, which I couldn’t resist two or three of each breakfast (they were mini after all!) We had dinner one evening in the hotel’s Restaurant Bonerowska (see details above).

Have you been to Krakow or any other Polish cities? I’d love to hear your recommendations in the comments below.